Journal · The Tower

Cat tree assembly and the six month retighten

Written by Nuzz·3 November 2026

Cat tree assembly gets about four lines in most instruction leaflets, and the more important half of the job is not in there at all. A flat packed tower is a bolted structure that will spend years absorbing sudden lateral loads from an animal jumping on and off it, and bolted structures under that kind of load lose their clamping force. The wobble people report at month eight is almost always this, and it is fixable in two minutes with the hex key that came in the box. Nobody sells you a maintenance habit, so here it is.

Why fasteners work loose

This is not about anyone's cheap hardware. It is a documented mechanism in mechanical engineering.

A Sandia National Laboratories paper on bolt preload loss under modal excitation sets out the sequence. Preload loss, it reports, is most likely to occur as a result of shear loading on the joint. In the first stage, plastic deformation and wear in the load-bearing threads enlarge the gaps between them, which reduces joint stiffness and the load it carries, and allows slip at the bolt head and at the threads. In the second stage, that partial slip, driven by cyclic bending, produces stick-slip between the mating threads and the fastener actually rotates.

Their numbers are from a test rig rather than a cat tower, but they give a sense of scale: lightly torqued bolts, at roughly 176 pounds-force of preload, lost about three percent of preload in five minutes of excitation near resonance, with the preload dropping quickly and then decaying more slowly. Their simulations of the later rotational stage showed losses in the range of six to eight percent.

A cat tower sees exactly the load type described: repeated, lateral, cyclic, delivered as impacts rather than steady pressure. Over a year of a cat jumping onto an outer platform edge and pushing off again, joints lose preload. Then there is a second effect specific to furniture: the material itself compresses under the fixing. Chipboard, plywood and anything with a soft covering under the washer all crush slightly over time, so the bolt that was tight against a 15 millimetre stack is now slightly loose against a 14.7 millimetre one.

Neither of those is a defect. Both are predictable, and both are reversed by turning the fastener.

Cat tree assembly, done so that it stays together

Unpack onto something soft and lay everything out. Flat packed towers ship tight. Ours arrives in a carton 530 by 431 by 230 millimetres, which is compact enough to carry upstairs and means the parts come out in a specific order and have to go back in the reverse one if you need to repack. Count the fixings against the list before you start, because discovering a missing bolt at step nine means dismantling.

Build on the floor, not on carpet if you can avoid it. Carpet lets the base rock while you are tightening, which means you tighten a joint that is not sitting square and it loosens as soon as the tower is level.

Start every fastener by hand before tightening any of them. This is the single biggest difference between a rigid tower and a wobbly one. If you fully tighten joint one, joint four will not line up, and you will either force it, which strains the board, or leave it slack. Get everything finger tight, check the structure sits square, then tighten in sequence.

Do not overtighten into board. The failure mode with wood-based panels is stripping the hole or crushing the material around the washer, and once stripped, that joint will never hold properly again. Tight means the joint does not move. It does not mean the fastener will not turn any further.

Tighten in a pattern, not in order. Work diagonally across each platform, like wheel nuts, rather than going round the edge. It seats the panel evenly.

Fit the scratching posts and ramps last and check they bear evenly. A ramp that only touches at one end puts all of the cat's weight through one fixing.

Then load it before you hand it over. Push down firmly on each platform, including on the outer edges, and push the whole structure sideways at the top. Anything that moves now will move more later.

The six month retighten

Put it in your calendar twice a year. It takes two minutes.

  1. Take the hex key or spanner that came with the tower and keep it somewhere you will find it. Taping it inside the box house, or to the underside of the base, works.
  2. Go over every fastener on the structure, not just the ones that look suspect. Bring each one back to tight without forcing it.
  3. Pay particular attention to platform-to-column joints and anything that cantilevers, because those see the highest stress from a landing cat.
  4. Push the top of the tower sideways afterwards and compare it with how it felt when new.
  5. Check the rope wrapping while you are there. Loose or unravelling rope can be re-stapled or rewound, and rope is cheap. Our tower's posts are rope wrapped and the supplier calls the rope sisal; we have not tested the fibre, so that is their description rather than our claim.

If a joint will no longer come up tight, the hole has probably stripped. A longer fastener, a threaded insert, or a wooden dowel and glue in the hole before refitting will all usually recover it. Do not keep forcing the original screw into a failed hole.

Anchoring, if the design allows it

Some towers have provision for a wall strap. If yours has, use it, and the retighten applies to the strap fixing as well.

The CPSC's Anchor It guidance is written for dressers and televisions rather than pet furniture, but the method transfers: a kit of brackets, plates and a strap, a drill and bit, a screwdriver, and a stud finder. Mount the bracket to the wall, bring the furniture close, fix the other bracket to the furniture, connect and tighten the strap, then tug it to confirm it holds. That final tug is the part worth copying.

It is worth knowing why no tower carries a stability certification. The mandatory United States tip-over standard, ASTM F2057, applies to free-standing clothing storage units, and its scope explicitly excludes shelving units and other categories. Cat furniture is not covered by it, so there is no test result to look for and maintenance is doing work that regulation is not. See will a cat tree tip over.

While you have the tools out

Two small things that are easier during a retighten than at any other time.

Wash or swap the cushions. The AAFP and ISFM Feline Environmental Needs Guidelines make the point that cats rely on a familiar scent profile to feel secure, and their fifth pillar is respect for the cat's sense of smell. So wash one cushion at a time rather than stripping everything at once, and leave the cat something that still smells of it.

Check the platform surfaces. A platform that has gone slick, or a cushion that has flattened to nothing, makes landing harder, which matters most for older and heavier cats.

The short version

Start every fastener by hand, tighten diagonally, do not strip the board, and load test every platform before you let the cat near it. Then retighten everything twice a year, because shear loading on a bolted joint causes preload loss and a cat jumping on and off a tower supplies shear loading for free. It is the cheapest thing you can do for stability. For the rest of the buying decision, see how to choose a cat tree, and our tower is the flat packed wooden one this article was written around.

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